Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
